The zimmerit was hand-applied using my tried and trusted Squadron Green putty and Tamiya zimm rake method. Zimmerit was seldom applied neatly, and for me, the resin sheets you can get don't always hit the right spot - they can be a bit too neat. This might break with some modellers received wisdom, but look closely at wartime photos and you'll see what I mean. I've seen some wartime pics of really horrendously applied zimm that if you replicated it, your model would look hideous. So... for me, doing it yourself strikes a happy medium between the two.
Back to the model. I had some spare DML King Tiger "Magic Tracks" so I used them instead of the first generation indy links that were in the kit. I used a spare Aber side skirt to stick between the exhaust stacks, and the kit skirts were carefully cut apart with a jewellers saw and carefully thinned down to a realistic scale thickness around the edges. Doing it this way saves a heap of cash, and look every bit as good as photo-etch. I'll get on my modelling soap-box again. Why use photo-etch when the styrene part is more in-scale and every bit as detailed? OK, you need it for some parts - or if you are dealing with a poor quality kit - , but modern kits from Dragon, Bronco, AFV Club etc mean that by and large, photo-etch pain is a thing of the past.
The figures were from the Dragon range with Hornet heads. Panzer pink-edged shoulder boards and epaulettes were from the peerless Archer range. Anyway, here it is:
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